COMPLICATED FABRICS? USE SIMPLE DESIGNS

The biggest mistake of a clothes-making novice is the belief that they can start working with silks right away. Slidey fabrics are tricky to work with for everyone, with experience you'll be better at handling them but they will remain complicated fabrics. Think about it like eating a burger that has lettuce, tomato and gherkin layered in - the chances of nothing moving are pretty much zero, and you will make a mess.

Slippy fabrics are not much different: they move, they slide, they fall, they make a mess. I have two cuts of vintage silks from my family and they have been sitting in a box for at least a decade now: I didn't dare to touch them. I wasn't sure what exactly I wanted to make with them and until it became clear I'd rather let them wait for their moment to shine.

Making a Boyfriend Silk Shirt

A few weeks ago I stumbled across the pink cut of silk crepe-de-chine and decided that now was the time. I wanted to make a shirt and with the small amount of fabric I had, I knew it would have to be a very simple boxy shirt with a dropped shoulder. And it was a great choice not only for the use of fabric but also for work.

Silk is not my go-to fabric and it does intimidate me even with all the years of experience I have. There's a little catch-22: if you want to master a certain fabric, you should practice working with this fabric. And the best way to start practicing is by making very simple designs with minimum complicated details.

Relaxed-fit shirts for beginners

This boxy shirt is super basic, we teach how to design such boxy patterns in our Beginner-friendly course "Relaxed Tops". Simple design makes working with complicated fabrics less intimidating, minimises possibilities for mistakes and gives you that needed practice time.

My top tips for working with silk:

1. Don't start if you are not ready. Leave that fabric for later. If you're scared to cut into it, keep practicing and working with other fabrics.

2. Opt for simple designs especially if you've never worked with silk before.

3. Make sure you have sharp scissors and, same as with any other fabric, do not cut in the air: your bottom knife must touch the desk at all times.

4. Use extra fine machine needle for extra fine fabrics (I'm working with an industrial machine and used needle Nº65).

5. Button stands, collars & cuffs should definitely be interfaced to keep the shape.

6. Get ready to do a lot of hand-stitching (basting stitches). Fabric moves a lot, pins might not be enough.

7. Silk is very delicate and needs delicate stitching: opt for French seams.